Design Elements of Red Fire: Cartier’s Ruby & Diamond Necklace – Exquisite Jewellery Craftsmanship

Few necklaces in history capture the imagination quite like Elizabeth Taylor’s Cartier ruby and diamond necklace, affectionately known as Red Fire. 

Gifted to her in 1957 by her then-husband Mike Todd during a summer on the French Riviera, this masterpiece of jewellery design exemplifies the emotional power and artistic depth that great jewels carry. 

While Red Fire itself now belongs to history and museum exhibitions, its design offers timeless lessons for jewellery lovers and creators alike - lessons in artistry, proportion, and the dialogue between colour and light.

A Gem With a Story & Craftsmanship to Match

The Red Fire necklace isn’t just a statement piece. It’s a carefully balanced work of art. 

Designed by Cartier, it combines glowing rubies with sparkling diamonds in a breathtaking lattice-work design. 

When Mike Todd presented it to Taylor, she described the effect as “like the sun, lit up and made of red fire” - a reflection of not only the gem’s intensity, but also to the thoughtful design that brings its elements to life. 

Rubies have always held special appeal in fine jewellery. Their fiery red hue, especially when Burmese in origin, conveys strength, passion, and beauty. In the Red Fire necklace, these rubies do not merely sit beside diamonds - they are lifted and amplified by the diamonds around them.

The Power of Contrast: Colour and Light

One of the most striking design elements of the Red Fire necklace is the way Cartier used contrast to elevate both colour and sparkle.

The piece features:

• A lattice-style bib of baguette-cut and brilliant diamonds

• Rich oval and cushion-cut rubies spaced throughout

• A mix of platinum and 18ct gold settings that allow both metal tones to support light reflection and colour balance

The effect of placing intense red rubies against a backdrop of brilliant diamonds is twofold:

1. Rubies appear richer and deeper

2. Diamonds gleam brighter beside the saturated colour

This interplay of colour and light is something we strive for in every bespoke design at Simon West Fine Jewellery. 

Whether it’s a vibrant gemstone framed by diamonds or a subtle contrast between warm and cool metals, great design considers how each element enhances the others.

Thoughtful Geometry and Proportion

Cartier’s attention to proportion is another reason why the Red Fire design endures. 

The necklace was conceived as a bib piece - a generous yet balanced arrangement that rests elegantly around the neckline. 

The diamond latticework serves as a structural and aesthetic anchor, ensuring that the vibrant rubies are presented in a refined, rhythmic sequence rather than seeming random or overly ornate.

Such geometric rhythm is key in jewellery design. Too much symmetry can feel rigid, while unchecked creativity can feel chaotic. Cartier’s approach to Red Fire demonstrates how measured repetition and thoughtful spacing create harmony between gemstone and setting.

At Simon West Fine Jewellery, we often reference this when designing bespoke pieces. 

A well-crafted engagement ring or pendant should feel balanced from every angle. 

Gemstones should complement one another and the wearer’s style, forming a cohesive whole rather than a collection of disconnected parts.

Metal Choices That Shape Mood

Another subtle but significant feature of the necklace is its use of mixed metals. 

Cartier combined platinum with 18ct gold, using each metal where it best supported colour and reflection. 

Platinum’s cool tone highlights the brightness of the diamonds, while gold adds warmth to the rubies’ fiery red.

This use of metal isn’t merely aesthetic. It influences how the wearer and observer perceive the jewels:

• Platinum or white gold enhances brilliance

• Gold deepens colour warmth

In bespoke jewellery design, metal choice is just as important as gemstone choice. 

At Simon West Fine Jewellery, we work with clients to select metals that best showcase the stones’ characteristics while aligning with personal style - be it the classic glow of yellow gold, the romantic blush of rose gold, or the crisp brilliance of platinum and white gold.

Emotion Embedded in Design

While the technical elements of Red Fire tell one part of the story, its emotional resonance tells another. 

This necklace wasn’t conceived merely as decorative art. It was a gift of love - given spontaneously on a summer afternoon and worn by Taylor in some of her most glamorous public moments. 

Jewellery that carries emotional weight does so because its design feels personal. Whether it’s a customised engagement ring, a meaningful anniversary gift, or a treasured heirloom, the most cherished pieces in any collection are those that connect with memory and feeling.

Legacy and Inspiration

After Taylor’s death, the Red Fire necklace appeared in exhibitions and editorials celebrating the finest jewellery craft. 

Its brilliant rubies and radiant diamonds continue to inspire designers and collectors, reminding us that truly great jewels aren’t merely objects, but storytellers.

At Simon West Fine Jewellery, we celebrate this philosophy. Each piece we craft is rooted in:

• Proportion and balance

• Colour harmony

• Meaningful design choices

• Technical excellence

These are the qualities that elevate jewellery from beautiful to unforgettable.

In your own jewellery journey - be it bespoke wedding rings or meaningful gifts - consider these important concepts. 

Seek proportion, celebrate contrast, and never underestimate the power of emotion behind a design. 

After all, the deepest beauty in jewellery lies not only in its sparkle but in the stories it holds.